Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The clean, light, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin allows the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window can be sited to either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

"External" refers to the maximum external dimension. For log cabins with terraces, this has been included in that dimension.

Perspex safety glazing.

Please note; the windows on either side of the bay are fixed (non opening).

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - A Construction How To

Wonderful long summery afternoons may be calling, but don’t hasten to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it is constructed, and you'll certainly savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will change dependant on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

It’s possible to show this text to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whoever gets the cabin built, the initial step is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to construct you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Lay out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Log Cabin is built you can then go back and cut off away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane showing. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Log Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of slots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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