Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teeri log cabin is a part of the Finnforest Finn Life range.

At any moment you could be either outside enjoying the sunshine, or in your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin playing games and enjoying a refreshing drink. Occasionaly you want time for yourself in the Teeri's secluded rear room; rather you want to be centre stage in the L-shaped main room. During the week it's back to business - your able to use the Teeri for hosting events too! Never a dull moment.

Finnforest log cabin components are precision-cut from top quality Scandinavian softwood for an immaculate fit. The timber comes from well-managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist. Building your Finnlife Teeri log cabin using the excellent plans supplied is simple and straightforward. The result is a professional-looking job that you'll be happy to call your own.

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Those slow summertime days may be coming, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you're guaranteed to enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction skills are involved. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will change depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

You could show this document to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. However, no matter who gets the cabin built, the immediate stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you commence to erect you ought to check that you have a full set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Place out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is complete you can then go back and trim away any excess polythene/DPC membrane visible. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the proper gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Place ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to attach.

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Finnlife Models