Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

The Finnforest Talo Log Cabin is dual-purpose; it offers both a convenient storeroom and also has a decent sized space in the main room. The storeroom is partitioned off the main room and can be entered through its own external door, no only allowing a room for storage of equipment and garden furniture but perhaps another quiet room.

Like all Finnlife log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.
Why Buy FinnForest?

Assembly of the Finnlife Talo Log Cabin is made easy with the clearly illustrated and clear to follow step by step plans. Fully glazed windows and exterior panels make life easier for you.

FEATURES:

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Separate side room

DIMENSIONS:

Internal: 4.47m x 3.51m (14ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.76m x 3.80m (15ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Internal Area: 15.69m² (169 ft²)
External Area: 18.09m² (195 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.90m (9'6")

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

The slow summery evenings might be coming, but don’t hurry to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to figure out how it goes together, and you’ll get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist skills are involved. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. But, whoever gets the cabin built, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is crucial. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you commence to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and bottom-most level. Put them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finnlife Log Cabin comes with internal walls, also put the half-height wall boards that make up the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help.

Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Put the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints slot together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Put them in the appropriate position.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards finish in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board may be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When constructing the Finnlife Log Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. When building during the winter time we would recommend tapping the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

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