Finnlife Seita Log Cabin

The Finnlife Seita Log Cabin comes with a veranda providing a charming air to this [Blog cabin and has been designed to utilise the most space.

With its half glazed door and opening window this charming log cabin is a great place to while away the hours. The walls are made using tongue and groove 28mm timber with the corners finished in an interlocking design for further strength.

* Roof with shingles for long-lasting protection from the elements
* Half glazed doors
* Opening window
* Veranda with handrail
* Tongue and groove timber
* 28mm thick walls
* Interlocking corners for a sturdy construction

As with Finnlife Log Cabins, the Seita can come with underfloor heating.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Seita 1 front opening window
Seita with underfloor heating 1 front opening window

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Seita 0cm 0cm
Seita with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine
Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Seita Styrene
Seita with underfloor heating Glass

Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Seita 2.8cm
Seita with underfloor heating 2.8cm

Return to top

Build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Those lazy summer afternoons might be calling, but don’t hasten to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you'll certainly enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are involved. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will change depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You may present this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whichever person completes the work, the immediate step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to construct you should check that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes internal walls, also Set the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If needed, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a tight fit, you should tap each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends shows a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. Start the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models