Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

The Finnlife Puro Log Cabin, newly released in 2007, conforms to a traditional scandinavian design. As with many of the Finnlife log cabins the logs are 28mm in thickness. Whatever corner of your garden you intend to place the cabin in is simply perfect. The roof of the [Blog cabinand the floor are manufactured of oriented strand board and the roof covering is shingle tile. These boards are also 28mm thick.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Puro 2 side opening windows
Puro with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Puro 0cm 0cm
Puro with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm
Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Puro Styrene
Puro with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Solid Sheet Material

Roof Material Solid Sheet Material

Cladding Width
Puro 2.8cm
Puro with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Instructions for building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lazy sunshining afternoons might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will change depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your great new Finn Life Cabin. But, whosoever does the job, the immediate stage is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any leftover cutdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by placeing wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board may be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When making the
Finn Life Log Cabin during the hotter months, we advise to leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When building during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Set it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a cut to trim it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models