Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room enough for a pool cue at full extent - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Constructing the Pori Log Cabin

Sumptuous, slow summertime evenings may be enticing, but don’t hasten to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is put together, and you'll certainly get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It is possible to present this document to a professional builder then relax until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whichever person finishes the task, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to construct you ought to check that you have a complete set of components. Tick off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Place out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is ready you can then go back and cut off away any additional polythene/DPC membrane visible. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards terminate in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board may be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When erecting the
Finnlife Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. When constructing during the winter time we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
fashioned by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line fashioned by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Place the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. Begin the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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