Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Lampi log cabin is a member of the Finnforest quality range of outdoor buildings.

Great things come in small packages they say, and the Lampi certainly has a lot to offer. Wouldn't you like to get away from it all? Relax with a good book, or just take time away from the hustle and bustle of daily life.Possibly you require an office in your garden.

Perhaps Lampi is the answer.

The Finnforest Lampi is comprised of Scandinavian design, with logs of 28mm in thickness. The compact size of this superb log cabin is simply ideal for those who need everything in their garden

The roof and floor is made up of Tongue and Groove which makes this cabin even more stable and sturdy and gives it superb longevity. This building features two opening windows and glazed door, providing a chic look.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Lampi 2 opening windows
Lampi with underfloor heating 2 opening windows
Door Opening Size (w x h)
Lampi 0cm 0cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Lampi Styrene
Lampi with underfloor heating Styrene
Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Lampi 2.8cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 2.8cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Glazing Thickness 0cm

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How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, long summertime afternoons may be coming, but don’t rush to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You may show this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whosoever gets the cabin built, the immediate step is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid larger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to construct you ought to make sure that you have a complete set of parts. Tick off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Lay out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Log Cabin is complete you can then go back and cut off away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane showing. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Log Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards finish in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board should be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to take it out later on. When constructing the Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When building during the winter months we would recommend hitting the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is roughly straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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