Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin

Outdoor fun revolves around the Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin.

Imagine that your garden was a cricket pitch. That would make the Finn Life Kulma Log Cabin your pavilion. The Finnlife Kulma seems custom-designed for serving refreshments and watching sport.

Worry not about rain or the dreaded bad light. The inside is so roomy, the food, drink and banter - sporting and otherwise - can carry on all through the night!

Why buy the Finnforest Kulma Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood harvested from sustainable forests.
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.82m
External: 4.08m

Depth:
Internal: 2.94m
External: 3.20m

Ridge Height
External: 3.01m

Area:
Internal: 9.90m²
External: 11.56m²

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How to build your own Finnlife Log Cabin

Wonderful long sunshining evenings might be beckoning, but don’t rush to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to get to know how it is put together, and you'll certainly enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this text to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. However, whichever person does the job, the immediate step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is crucial. Care spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you commence to construct you should check that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each part near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Take the frame apart again and squeeze PVA glue into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Check that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess glue from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to stop glue smearing over the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fix all corners with the screws provided.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards end in a flushed ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board must be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When constructing the Finn Life Cabin during the hotter months, we advise that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. When building during the winter time we would advise hitting the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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