Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kopello Log Cabin: The multipurpose hall that never closes - snooker, dance or village.

The Kopello log cabin is constructed using only the finest quality softwood from sustainable forests in the Scandinavian region. The cabin features wall logs in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints which give a weatherproof building.

Why buy the Finnforest Kopello Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - consult your retailer for details.

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Construct the Koppelo Log Cabin

Gorgeous, slow summer days may be coming, but don’t hurry to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to work out how it is constructed, and you'll certainly get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will change depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It is possible to show this text to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. But, whichever person finishes the task, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you begin to build you ought to check that you have a full set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each component close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Make Sure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board may be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When making the Finn Life Cabin during the summer periods, we advise that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the colder periods. When building during the winter period we would recommend knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models