Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kesa lets you fully enjoy those eternal summer evenings. Right here is the place to share a slow leisurely sunset with your nearest and dearest.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured using only the highest quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are consciously managed and where industry and wildlife eke out a harmonious existence. The wall logs are set in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints, allowing for a totally weatherproof building.

The for this log cabin are set out step-by-step and well illustrated. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is packed in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Internal: 4.17m x 3.51m (13ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.46m x 3.80m (14ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")
Internal Area: 14.64m² (158 ft²)
External Area: 16.95m² (182 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")

Please note that the wood will need to be treated after is it assembled

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Building Your Finnlife Log Cabin

Gorgeous, lazy summery days might be calling, but don’t hasten to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are involved. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You could show this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, no matter who does the job, the immediate stage is to read carefully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you ought to make sure that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Note again that if your Finnlife Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If required, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should knock each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends reveals a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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