Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin

The Jarvi would be totally perfect for use as a small workshop in your garden, but like all cabins in the Finnlife range, it can be a very flexible building.

The Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin features 28mm thick logs for the walls, a single door, and a window. One of the interesting features is the pair of lockable window shutters. During the day you can shelter from the sun and rain underneath the Jarvi's wide canopy; at night you can secure your possessions behind the shutters.

Finnforest log cabins are built using the highest quality sustainable softwood from Scandinavian forests which are well managed and where industry and wildlife coexist harmoniously. The wall logs are layered alternatelytogether with windproof tongue and groove joints, which results in a building thats weatherproof.

Well illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with with your log cabin making assembly easier and simpler to follow. The doors and windows come fully glazed saving you a lot of work. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is in the right order for assembly, thus negating any time consuming reordering.

Finnforest 'Jarvi' Log Cabin Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Wide canopy across the front

Dimensions
Internal: 2.70m x 2.24m (8ft 10in x 7ft 4in)
External: 2.96m x 2.50m (9ft 9in x 8ft 3in
Ridge Height: 2.25m (7ft 5in)
Internal Area: 6.05m² (65 ft²)
External Area: 7.40m² (79 ft²)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers.

The Finnforest Jarvi provides:

# A comfortable cabin in your garden that will create a home office away from the hustle and bustle, a guest hideaway, somewhere to chill out - even a sauna.

# Superior 28mm tongue and groove timber wall boarding.

# Pre-hung door and one opening window supplied with styrene glazing.

# Window shutters lockable from the inside.

# Felt shingle roof.

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Instructions on construction of a Finn Life Log Cabin

The lazy summer evenings may be enticing, but don’t hurry to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to understand how it goes together, and you're guaranteed to enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it yourself!

It is possible to show this document to a professional builder then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whichever person completes the work, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to construct you ought to ensure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Set the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Make Sure that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a tight fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the length-most. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of slots for the roof beams. As every slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Set ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have placed the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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