Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finnforest Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just the ticket to working from home.

Some jobs need a bit more room than others. Architects have to go back to the drawing board; graphic designers like to see things on the big screen; film and video-makers want an indoor studio

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Building your Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Relaxing, slow sunshining afternoons might be calling, but don’t hasten to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you'll certainly enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are involved. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

It is possible to show this document to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. But, whoever finishes the task, the first stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid larger than the base of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to construct you ought to check that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Your complete Finnlife Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They give a strong base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air underneath the cabin by blocking the uncovered end. To prevent damp rising into your cabin each floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one underneath. The polythene transit packaging offers a perfectly good damp-proof course when made into thin strips. Otherwise you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are effortless to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your LINK=http://www.finnlife-uk.co.uk]Finnlife Log Cabin[/LINK]
model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models